Mechanical Pencil:
This is the pencil that I use the most. I have a .3 .5 and .7, each one used for different areas of a drawing. They come in handy with fine detail and tight areas. They are great to handle and recommend getting ones with a rubber grip, as this will give you much more control. They last much longer because leads are protected by pencil casing.Wooden Cased Pencil:
I like to use the Staedtler Mars Lumograph pencils and wouldn’t change them for any other. They are tough and don’t break easily. They are a must have if you plan on working on highly detailed drawings. Pencils range from hard to soft, 9H, 8H, … , 2H, H, F, HB, B, 2B, … , 8B, 9B. I mostly use 2h and 4h, I don’t expect you to use these also. Mix and match and see what works with your style and what you are trying to achieve. I use 2h for skin tones which allows me to lay down light areas. I use 4h to blend softer shades such as 4b and 5b.Colored Pencil:
There may be a need to use colored pencils. Generally you are looking for a smooth lead the does not smug to much. Any combination of manufactures colored pencils should be fine. This tends to reflect your individual style.Drawing Paper:
Bienfang is good paper and should fit most of the work that will be done. The size should be around 9 x 12.Indenting Stylus:
Well this is my main tool for adding texture and realism to animal hair and fur. Just what is it, you ask? Well its used for impressing a line into paper before drawing starts, this makes an invisible line. When you run the pencil over it, it leaves a clean white line. Well this tool can be used in many areas such as hair,grass and other fine details. Once you understand how to use this, it will become a handy tool for adding realism to your pencil drawings. I have two and I made these myself. I have one for fine lines which I made using a pen and adding a needle to the tip of it. Make sure you sand down the tip a bit or else it will rip through paper. The second one that i have is a ball point empty pen which i use for thicker lines. Make sure that you have completely gotten all the ink out of the pen or you might get some unfortunate mistakes. The tip thickness depends on the pen itself also, look for the one that works best. Both of these are great for adding realism to your drawings. This is a style that I have developed and that has worked for me, you might not like working with this but that allows you to find a style that will work for you.Stumps and Tortillons
These are used for blending graphite. They are double ended and is a great tool for getting smooth transitions from dark to light. Never, ever, ever use your finger to blend pencil because the oils from your fingers will cause graphite to stick to paper. Getting these little spots is the worst thing in a drawing, they practically impossible to remove.Color Sharpener:
You cant do much with stub, so these little tools come in handy. These not only can be used for sharpening the wood cased pencils and pencil erasers, but you can also use the graphite residue that collects to use with the tortillon.Kneaded Eraser
A tool that gave me the opportunity to give much more life to my drawings. It might look like just a piece of playdoh, but its a great tool for any pencil artist. It works just like an eraser, but it just pulls out almost any mark that has been made with a pencil. When molded to a fine line, it can pull graphite off the paper leaving a nice clean line. Great for creating hair and highlights, its a tool that must be included with all your others.Pens:
For fine-detailing and permanence when writing in micro-spaces or on unusual and challenging surfaces. Used to make precise long-lasting marks on test tubes, circuit boards, diamonds, cellophane, wood, glass, plastic, CDs, photographic film and metal. Chemically stable and waterproof. The durable fine line nib will not split. Non-toxic. Black only.
Available in 3 point sizes:
01 = 0.25 mm
03 = 0.35 mm
05 = 0.45 mm
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